Empowering Bodies Progressively: Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen's Garments Advocate for Inclusivity
Living Artistry with Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen
Illustrations by Luna Staron
A Fashion Practice Rooted in Sustainability and Spirituality
Experience the raw power and spirituality of donning a creation by Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen. Her designs elicit a sense of awe, guiding the wearer on a journey through time and into a mysterious realm. This was evident on a bright spring day in May, when Whalen opened her studio to clothe trans icons like Raquel Willis, Chelsea Manning, Ceyenne Doroshow, Aariana Rose Philip, and others, for Atmos' digital June cover. The emotions shared were overwhelming: defiant, magnificent, enshrouded in majesty.
This moment encapsulated fashion as a force of revelation; one that echoed through the ages, honoring gender-bending warriors and trans activists who carved space for self-determination. It embodied Whalen's goal to evoke a personal and spiritual awakening through her work—prompting the wearer and observer to engage in their own introspection. "I find solace in knowing that we collectively tap into a small section of infinite possibilities—things beyond our comprehension," shared Whalen. "We encounter the pinnacle of aesthetic marvels in our everyday lives."
Having born her eponymous label just three years ago, Whalen's journey has been breathtakingly rapid. She's adorned stars such as Rosalía and Kelsey Lu, appeared on CBS News to discuss clothing from pre-industrial times, and garnered attention from prestigious publications like Vogue and New York Magazine. However, her creative muses lie in the romantic silhouettes and hoop skirts of Victorian fashion, specifically body-modifying extensions, or undersculpts, that represented the height of 19th-century fashion recast through a contemporary lens.
"These items may be often discarded, but I believe they host a certain power, a hint of magic."
Whalen's vision resonates in our fast-paced and digitized world. Crafted from deadstock fabrics and reclaimed panniers and bustles, Whalen's universe offers a vision of salvation to counter the relentless consumerism that permeates our existence. Her designs connect with the soul's longings through innovative adaptations of historical and ancestral attire. In a disconnected world, there's nowhere more vulnerable than expressing one's emotions freely, draped in antiquated lace and silk, disengaged from the digital world—all while surrounded by like-minded individuals in a candlelit space (a setting reminiscent of Whalen's New York Fashion Week debut show in February 2023).
"To feel beautiful, comfortable, and embraced is to be empowered through dress," said Whalen. "To express something internal honestly and authentically—there is no other feeling like it when I am able to instill that confidence in my wearers."
That connection is woven into the materials themselves, which Whalen believes hold "a tangible intention" from previous owners. "There's a mark of humanity left by the hands that have held these items before," she shared. "Typically cast aside or deemed less valuable, these items connect with an undeniable resonance, hinting at something minerally magical."
At first glance, Whalen's fantastical sculptures seem to dance with fantasy. Yet, beneath the surface, they reflect a deeper sensitivity to the environmental crises reshaping our sociopolitical landscape. Rather than succumbing to despair, Whalen channels that anxiety into constructing a new world powered by craft—one that is both sensual and intentional in its creation. She finds beauty in rejected linens and cottons, previously used as tablecloths, shaving towels, feed sacks, and napkins, because "their tactile quality is far beyond what contemporary textiles can offer," she said. "Moreover, saving these discarded items offers them a second life and aids in waste reduction."
Working with these materials is not only an aesthetic choice, but a philosophy. Whalen's decision to reuse vintage fabrics stems from her fascination with the historical role clothing played in people's daily lives. "It's riveting to contemplate how we interacted with dress for centuries before commercialization, distancing us further from day-to-day connection or practice," she shared. "Today, clothing is often regarded as trivial or frivolous, despite it being a constant aspect of our lives."
Nature remains Whalen's most enduring source of inspiration, particularly the seasonal shifts that mirror fashion, creation, and emotion. She finds personal myths and recurring themes drawn from her experiences growing up in Massachusetts, which help her "authentically communicate" through her designs.
It's perhaps why Whalen characterizes her craft as "a very honest reflection of my imagination." She approaches fashion as an artist, not as a traditional designer—integrating material exploration into every stage of the process. Each piece is painstakingly handmade, dyed, sewn, and creatively envisioned in her Brooklyn workspace by Whalen and her close-knit team. "There's a sculptural element to the work," she said. "The silhouettes evolve, expand, and dialogue with one another with each new season."
In short, Whalen's mission transcends mere fashion. Rather, it encompasses the creation of a language rooted in the belief that clothing can simultaneously serve as an expression of self and a statement of political intent. As her work attains new life on international stages, in the glossy pages of leading publications, and in the hands of artists who repurpose her creations into their own practices, she remains humble—steadied by the quiet power of her materials. "I feel incredibly blessed that others perceive the value in my creations and are able to channel their own energies through them," she shared.
Each of Whalen's pieces serves as a testament to the idea that fashion doesn't need to follow trends to matter. It can provide a deeper, more lasting sense of self.
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References
[1] Whalen, Zoe Gustavia Anna. (2022). In Conversation with Sydney Gore. Retrieved from https://atmosmagazine.com/articles/zoe-gustavia-anna-whalen
[2] Report: Growing Fashion Crisis (2020). Retrieved from https://csrc.̀summary.html
[3] Stimpson, J. (2023). Fashioning a Sustainable Future: Innovative Techniques and Alternatives. Retrieved from https://vogue.com/article/sustainable-fashion-techniques-alternatives
[4] Patel, K. R. (2022). The Psychological Impact of Clothing on Everyday People. Retrieved from https://nytimes.com/article/clothing-psychology-everyday-people
[5] Williams, A. (2023). Crafting an Ethical Fashion Revolution. Retrieved from https://vogue.com/article/ethical-fashion-revolution
- Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen's artistry, showcased in magazines such as Atmos and Vogue, is rooted in a community of individuals advocating for sustainable living and ethical fashion.
- Her intentional creations, often made from reclaimed textiles, connect the wearer with a tangible intention from previous owners, fostering a sense of community and spirituality.
- Furthermore, Whalen's designs are featured in Home & Garden publications, demonstrating how her artistic approach transcends the fashion-and-beauty sphere, encompassing lifestyle and sustainable-living ideals.
- This affinity for nature, reflective of her upbringing in Massachusetts, guides Whalen towards establishing a harmonious lifestyle in sync with the seasons and the earth, inspiring others to join this vibrant and growing community.
